CIREBON

Cirebon, the first big harbour east of Jakarta, is a modest trade city with about 225,000 inhabitants. It's the only of the 16th century Jawanese city kingdoms, complete with palaces and royal families, which has survived the times. With this fact, Cirebon is the oldest royal city of the island; about three centuries older than both Yogyakarta and Solo. However without doubt it's one of the most interesting places of Jawa, foreign tourists are still a rare sight, because the city is far awa from the tourist areas.

The location of Cirebon is very strategic. In the Indojawanese time it was the most important harbour of the mighty Galuh kingdom, of which the capital was located in the fertile of the River Citanduy , not too far away from Ciamis. The harbour also opened the way to the River Cimanuk, which flows through Sumedang to the lake basin of Bandung. Because the coasts of Western Jawa are swampy and in some places rocky Cirebon and Sunda Kelapa ( Jakarta ), together with Banten in the far West, the main entries to the blooming highlands.
Nowadays Cirebon is on the crossing of a busy coastal road and the main road to Bandung. The harbour, main depot for the oil from the Jawa Sea, is famous for it's great catches of fish and other sea animals. Cirebon means 'River of Shrimps' and the city has a nickname 'Kota Udang', 'City of the big Shrimps'; historical sources tell us that the name of the city is probably diverted from caruban, which means 'mixture' - a withness of the very heterogene heir of Cirebon.

Old coastal kingdom

However the roots of Cirebon grow deep into the Indojawanese history, it's the arrival of the Islam which gave the city it's powerfull position. Cirebon was most likely the first Islamic city kingdom of Jawa. Local cronics name Cakrabuana, Prince of Galuh-Pajajaran, which became harbour master of Cirebon. After that he reformed towards Islam, and didn't want to be tributary anymore and defended himself successfully against the attacks of the king. This most likely took place in the early 15th century, since the room of the throne at the entrance of the Kasepuhan Palace is dated 1425.
The famous rise of Cirebon is more associated with Sunan Gunung Jati, one of the nine wali which prepared Jawa for the Islam a century afterwards. Following an old story his father was a sultan from the Middle-East, and his mother a younger sister of Cakrabuana which had been to Mecca for the piolgrimage. The boy, born on Sumatera, was placed on his throne directly. He lead the recontruction of the palace and got himself a fabulous reputation as one of the most holy persons of his time.
In the 16th century, the 'Golden Century' of the Islamdic coastal kingdoms, Gunung Jati connected himself with the mighty Demak and conquerred Hinduist harbours like Sunda Kelapa and Banten afterwards. He died in 1568; his grave, north of Cirebon, is an important place of pilgrimage for Jawanese and Sundanese muslems.
During the 17th centuy another Islamic power developed on Jawa: the inland kingdom of Mataram. The coastal kingdoms were swept away - including royal families - by the Central Jawanese armies of sultan Agung. Only the rulers of Cirebon succeeded to survive as fazals of Mataram, probably through their smart prearranged marriages and their religious leaders. Sultan Agung took a Cirebon princess as his wife, in which all Mataram rulers got connected to the coastal city through him.
Following royal stories the kingdom was split up peacefully in 1678. The three princes from Cirebon built new palaces. At about the same time Mataram had to pay the entire north to the Dutch as result of a war-debt. The sultans were obliged to sign contracts with the VOC, which got the monopoly over the im-, and export. On the other hand, the sultans were allowed to keep their kingdom and their privileges.
The following century the colonial power was a battle for existance. In the 18th century the population of Cirebon was decimated by epidemics and famine; gangs looted the surrounding area, while greedy Dutch servants filled up their pockets, without the permission of the Dutch government.
At the beginning of the 19th century a new colonial government was installed. The kingdom was split up under the heirs; today five different royal families still exist. From 1809 the sultans got a yearly income of 18.000 'rijksdaalders' ( Dutch coin with the value of 2,50 Guilder ) The title of sultan was abolished. Ever since they have a retiring exsistance in their palaces, just like the rulers of Yogyakarta and Solo. They followed the Central-Jawanese rulers who became the patron of arts. In between a new European quarter appeared at the northern side of the city. Nowadays Cirebon looks the same as other not to big Jawanese cities.

Early Palace architecture

However Cirebon is the oldest still remaining Islamic royal city of Jawa, it still owns the best preserved examples of the early Indojawanese palace architecture. The pavilions in the gardens ( Siti Inggil of the kratons KasePuhan and Kanoman in Cirebon show a building style which is typical fot the 13th and 14th century East-Jawanese palaces, which can be found on the reliefs on Singosari and Majapahit.
As well as the palaces of Yogyakarta and Solo ( and the Balinese governmental temples ) the central pavilion symbolizes the holy mountain Meru as the centre of the universe, surrounded by seas and continents. Only the fundaments of these structures were originally built from stone or masonry; pilars and roofr were made from wood and palmfibre. With the construction of later palaces concrete, tiles and iron were also used, above all European and oriental features like arched windows were added.
The two most famous palaces of Cirebon unite both elements. The Kraton kasepuhan ( 'palace of the oldest brother' ) in the southeast of the city is located on the original spot of the Pakungwati palace ( 15th century ) and stands to the north watching over the old city square. It would be built in 1677-1678, however the other buildingd probably are not that old. In fact, the whole front part of the kraton, the porch and the Siti Inggil included are directly from the oldest time. The entrance gate from red brick has the shape of an East Jawanese candi bentar like they still can be found on Bali. The low wall which encloses the complex, consists of special bricks that were connected without cement. Earlier, the complex was also surrounded by a canal; the water was taken from a nearby river. The bridge was the only way to entere the palace.
Just behind the gbate are the old watchman's huts; small, open constructions with a piramid shape roof. The bigger pavilions behind that served for royal meetings, court, religious meetings, gamelan and governmental ceremonies. The elegant wooden pilars are decorated with woodcarvings. This part of the kraton is the most authentic; this is how an old Indojawanese palace should have looked like.
A part of theoriginal Pakungwati palace, east ot the Siti Inggil, is ruined. The fundaments of a meditation complex and a royal bathing place, which is filled with holy sources, can be found. During the annual Panjang-Jimat festivities on the birthday of Muhammad ( 12 Mulud ), young people bath in the water from the holy source; it is said it will guarantee a partner for marriage.
A lane covered in shadows runs from Siti Inggril to the main building of the palace. The free standin entry gate is remarkable: a white, arched, with pilars supported gate which shows European features is decorated with wadasan motives ( rock motives ), which are a brand of this royal home. They would go back to the calckstone hills south of the city, and symbolize the meditational caves which are associated with meditational power. They are also connected with the Chinese expression of qi, the kosmic energy which is carried out by the royal ruler . Two white Siliwangi tigers form the attraction in the garden in front of the building.
The first building is a big meeting room with an Jawanese look, but with 18th century European furniture. behind this room are two other halls for ceremonial meetings. East of that are the living areas of the royal family. This part has a view over a big garden, with ponds and replica's of religious mountains. At the back the Pringgodani Hall is located, with at it's west the nice meeting room ( paseban ) Roof and pilars decorated with wealthy woodcarvings, originally from the Pakungwait Palace.
The Gedong Singa ( lion shed ) is worth while a visit. Singa Barong united all Jawanese mythological objects; Garuda, horse, lion and elephant. The wagon, moved by a number of albino oxes, was only used at special occations, in which the sultan was fully dressed. Weapons are also to be seen here. The small museum at the other side of the garden shows musical instruments and seni debus, special instruments.

Other places of interest

At the western side of the old alun-alun is Mesjid Agung ( Big Mosque ). The layered, high meru-roof looks like the roof of an Hindu temple from the pre-Islamic time. The wall of red bricks which seals the terrain with nine gates, is a symbol of the wali songo, the nine holy Muslems.
Following the kraton tradition the mosque was completed in 1500; which would made it the oldest on Jawa. In any way the most remarkable. Entire in old-Jawanese style the roof is supported by four enormous pilars ( soko guru ). Just like the mosque of Demak one of the pilars was constructed in one night by Sunan Kalijaga, when he crushed the woodshreds together. The solid roof is made from an difficult system of beams, while the beautifull jati-wooden mimbar pulpit was decorated with Indojawanese kala-makara-motives. The portals are made from sculptured limestone, and decorated with mandala's. The big drum ( bedug ) which calls the religious people for their prayer, is named Sang Guru mangir.
The second palace of importance is 'Kraton Kanoman', or 'Palace of the youngest brother'. It's on walking distance from the mosque, just behind the busy market, Pasar Kanoman It was built about the same time as the Kasepuhan and it also looks like it a lot, but is smaller. A remarkable difference is that the Siti Inggil-pavilions in the northern part are built in a more modern way; roburt entrances of bricks and plaster, decorated with Chinese plates.
The palace garden is also worth while a visit because of 'Paksi Naga Liman' The wagon has a remarkable resemblance with the one of Kasepuhan, but is much older. Nearby is the Kraton Kacirebonan ( or Kacerbonan ), which is originated from the 19th century Kanoman, but is smaller and more modern. This neighborhood has two more 27th century monuments: an old mosque, the Mesjid Panjunan at Jalan Panjunan ( Potter Street ), one of Jawa's oldest Chinese temples, the Klenteng Thiaw Kak Sie at Jalan Pasuketan. This temple is consecrated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. The walls at the side of the big room are decorated with five big wall paintings, which express the ten Bhuddhist punishments.

Image Taman Arum Sunyagari

Lovers of exentric architecture cannot miss Taman Arum Sunyaragi, the in 1703 completed royal house and fortress, almost five kilometres south of the city. It contains water bassins and meditational rooms for sultans and their wives. Originally this complex was also surrounded by a canal. Because the royal house was easy to defend, it served in 1787 - in times of heavy supression, as wel as in the Jawa War ( 1823-1830 ) as a centre of resistance against the Dutch. The wars damaged the comples, and in 1853 it was restaurated. The Chinese contractor, which worked under sultan Sepuh, turned the royal house into a maze of Taoistic caves to an example of the Forbidden City in Bejing. Small stairs, sharp corners towards little rooms or just dead ends. Now it has been changed into a part, which doesn't have much of the original value.
Drive southwards, towards Kuningan, where the edge of a cliff gives a nice view over Cirebon and the coastal area.

Grave of Gunung Jati

The most famous place of interest of Cirebon is about five kilometres north of the city, at the shore. It's the Astana Gunung Jati, the grave of Gunung Jati. The name origins from the small, 25 metre high hill, overgrown with djati trees - the 'Djati Mountain', is the translation.
This place seems an original village of the Hinduist harbour of Caruban, in which Syeh Datuk Kahfi, an Islamic speaker, arrived in the 15th century. Caruban got famous rapidly because it became the centre of conversion. The nowadays complex shows graves from the early 15th century. It a place of worship for pilgrims from all over Jawa.
On top of the hill, from Cirebon on the right side of the hill, is the grave of Syeh Datuk Kahfi. Besides the centuries old ramshackle brick walls a stons stairs leads to the top, from which people hade a great view over the area. The hole grave of Sunan Gunung Jati and other graves, under which the graves of the royal families from Cirebon, a second hill can be found, Bukit Sembung, across the road towards the west.
There is a parking lot, surrounded by little shops with souvenirs, amulettes and empty bottles for holy water. Persisting street sellers and 'guides' bother the tourists continuously. Pay the low entry price at the gate of the gate of candi bentar, and leave the sellers for what they are.
The most important mausoleums are located on a hill at the back of the complex. They are only opened in high season and with special permission of the sultan. Luckily the graves lower on the hill and the mosque give an good impression of the place. Just like in the palaces of Cirebon the pavilions are built with woodcarved constructions, and the masonry walls contain Delft tiles and Chinese plates.
Every 35 days, on Thursday Kliwon of the Jawanese calendar, as well as Muhammad's birthday, this grave hill is being flooded by pilgrims. Some 108 kraman ( elderly ) work here, which originate from a shipcrew which suffered a shipwreck in the 16th century, as the story goes. They were appointed as guards and helpers of the royal graves by Gunung Jati. Still they use nautical terms and words; theyr tasks are identical to the watch at a ship.

Art from Cirebon

About the art traditions of Cirebon and surrounding area's there is not much known. It is clear that it was one of the most active area's for what about art, dance and music. Just like on Bali the disappearance of the royal leadership, didn't bother the production of arts. It even looks like that the inhabitants discovered new ways for their activities. There are clues that the villages North and West of Cirebon - Plered, Trusmi, Plumbon, Kalimanan, Arjawinangun, Susukan, Gegesik and other - were organised following the rules of the Sufi-tariqat or guilds, which were at least focused on an handicraft each.
Trisumi is know for it's batik, Plered for it's rattan furniture, Gegeris for it's paintings behind glass and topeng-dances. Maybe it's Cirebon, together with it's twin city of Indramayu, which have the most fame from it's extraordinary batiks. The big, remarkable motives in characteristik soga-brown, indigo, 'Turkish' red and creme colors give these batiks something special. The two most famous motives are Wadas Singa ( Kasepuhan-lions besides a cave ) in brown, black and creme, and Mega Mendung 'rain clouds', in splendid bright colors. The unique thing about these batik techniques is the effect of the pensils, it is almos treathed like a painting.
The Mecca for the Cirebon batiks is the stort of Ibu Masina in the village of Trusmi, twelve kilometres west of Cirebon. Leave the main road at the crossing to Weru, and follow the small road to the north; after about 500 metres the batik store and showroom can be found. Since the seventies, Ibu Mesina and her trained personell from Trusmi and Kalitengah brings alive the Cirebon motives.